Nail It!!

Yep. You are now ready (because I have taken what is in my head and finally put it to words - and numbers.. even fractions!).

Start by laying out a tarp, where you will have access to an outlet for the drill, and ample room to move around the unit. You may have to move some furniture out of the way..

Lay (2) of the 8' x 16" Plywood pieces flat, side - by - side. You will be marking on what will be the inside of the unit.

Measure and mark as follows:
(all measurements will line up with the bottom of each shelf. Keep that in mind while you build).

From the bottom, mark at 3" on each board - use a square or the edge of your level to get a clean line.
Next shelf at 15" from your first line, then at 17" from there and 38 1/2" from there. That should leave you with approximately 9" for your top shelf space.
With the boards laying side-by-side, you will be able to make sure that both measurements are the same.
*Helpful tip: Build with the bottom of the unit closest to the wall where it will be placed, then you won't have to move it as far to position it.

Start with (2) 3" supports glued and nailed to the inside of the bottom side boards for extra support of the bottom shelf.

Starting the bottom, begin to 'glue and screw' the shelves into place using your marks (and a level, to be sure..)
With a helper holding the side board, drill 3 pilot holes..
Use the counter-sink bit so that your screw heads will sit below flush (you will fill the void with wood putty and hand-sand smooth when it dries). Before you put the screws in, run a bead of wood glue along the rough edge of the side board for a secure fit. Wipe excess glue with a damp paper towel or cloth.
Make sure the top board is on top of the side boards, the rest of the shelves will be inset between the outer 'wall' of the unit.

Your helper can go sit down now.

You can now begin screwing the shelves into place, starting at the bottom. Always using the wood glue and counter-sink.

Cut and space the vertical pieces, spaced evenly. Add them as you add shelves, so that you have room to work.
Thirds for the top shelf and the 3rd shelf. Fourths for the bottom space. That is where your doors will go.

Once the shelves and verticals are all in place and level, it's time to back the unit. Easy. Use finishing nails to secure it. Make sure that you cut the pieces so that all seams are hidden by a shelf.

*Helpful Tip: I didn't do this, but wished I had... paint the inside-facing plywood before you nail it in place. At least with primer. It's time-consuming to paint in those small spaces!

Now that the shell is ready, stand her up and position it.

Figure out where you'll need an opening. Use a scroll or reciprocating saw to open up a hole in the back within the lower shelf area.. so you can hide the cords with the doors!
Doesn't have to be pretty, just functional!

Now is the time to start putting on a couple of coats of primer.

After your primer is dry, drill the holes in the back of the shelves where the TV will sit and on the shelf beneath it, in the same spot, so that you'll be able to feed cable and cords to the (concealed) outlets. Using a large wood bore drill bit (the kind that drills doorknob holes).

At this point you say "YAY!" "I'm almost done, sorta-slash-kinda!!"

Breathe.

Okay. Next step, the 'facing' boards. Using finishing nails, and keeping flush with the side edge, glue and nail the vertical pieces first. You will need to use a nail-set to tap the heads flush. Tidy up voids with either the wood putty, or my preference, a lightweight spackle. Yes, you do want it to 'lap'.. it's a 'style' touch!
Since we have a few electronic units, I also cut some removable shelves for the space below the TV, leaving each about an inch shy of the back, so the cords can feed through, and supported them with shelf pegs.

And, after you've accomplished the facing boards, it's time for the molding! This is where your mitering skills come into play! If you are using a table saw, you can adjust the degree.. or you can use a miter-box. The measuring on this is tricky. Be careful! But there is a 'fudge factor' when using wood putty.. you can fill and form any gaps - sand by hand, and paint will forgive all errors.
Measure twice, cut once!

When you have everything in place, it's time to paint the semi-gloss... forever (at least that's how it feels!)

Between drying time, start to assemble your cabinet doors.

I chose to use bead board, cut in (4) 12" x 12" squares. Use the rounded trim to finish (again, mitering, and again, use the white spackle to fill in the inevitable gaps.. paint will cover that too!)
Use wood glue on the trim pieces and let them set. You CAN nail them in place from the back afterward, but I didn't..

At this point.. you can finish on your own, I think.

The hinges are tricky.. had to go back and exchange them 3 times.. it's a learning experience.
My gift to you!

It should come out a little something like this!

If you do make your own, I would love to see it! And feel free to ask questions..

Postscript: Be sure to brace the unit to the wall. I used L-brackets at the top, screwed into the studs. Have a feeling when we sell the house, it will stay :)

Pin It